2/3/26 Hotter, Longer Burning Fires: The Michigan Winter Fire Lay Guide You Need

Michigan winters don’t play around (especially in 2026). Between lake effect snow, damp air, and temperatures that swing from chilly to downright punishing, building a dependable fire becomes more than a cozy pastime—it’s a survival skill. The right fire lay can mean the difference between a roaring, heat throwing blaze and a smoky disappointment that fizzles under wet wood and icy wind.
 
This guide breaks down the most effective fire lays for Michigan’s winter conditions, why they work, and when to use each one.
 
Why Fire Lays Matter More in Michigan Winters
Cold weather fire building is a different game entirely. Michigan adds a few unique challenges:
• Moisture everywhere: Snow covered wood, damp ground, and humidity means slow ignition.
• Wind exposure: Open fields, frozen lakes, and forest gaps create unpredictable drafts.
• Cold soaked materials: Even “dry” wood can be too cold to catch without proper structure.
• Fuel demand: Fires burn faster in cold air, so efficiency matters.
A smart fire lay compensates for all of this by improving airflow, protecting the flame, and maximizing heat reflection.
 
1. The Log Cabin Fire Lay
Best for: Long lasting heat, even cooking heat, and warming a shelter
The Log Cabin Fire Lay structure is a Michigan classic for a reason. It creates a stable, square frame that traps heat and encourages upward airflow.
Why it works in winter:
• The stacked walls act as a wind buffer.
• The open center creates a chimney effect with good air flow, helping cold wood ignite.
• It burns slow and steady, ideal for long evenings, cooking, drying clothes or warming a tent area.
How to build it:
• Lay two thick logs parallel.
• Add two more logs on top, perpendicular.
• Continue stacking like a cabin, leaving a hollow center.
• Place tinder and kindling inside the “room.”
This fire lay excels when you need a reliable fire.
 
2. The Upside Down (Top Down) Fire Lay
Best for: Wet conditions, minimal tending, and efficient heat
Michigan’s damp winters make this one a powerhouse. Instead of lighting from the bottom, you reverse the order.
Why it works:
• The fire dries the wood as it burns downward.
• It produces less smoke, even with imperfect fuel.
• It requires very little maintenance—great for long nights.
How to build it:
• Start with your largest logs on the bottom.
• Add medium logs on top.
• Add kindling above that.
• Finish with tinder at the very top.
Light the top, and the fire slowly consumes the layers beneath.
 
3. The Lean To Fire
Best for: Windy days and quick heat
Michigan’s winter winds can kill a fire before it starts. The lean to fire lay uses a large log as a windbreak and support.
Why it works:
• Shields the flame from gusts.
• Directs heat back toward the tinder.
• Ignites quickly—ideal for warming cold hands fast.
How to build it:
• Place a thick log on the ground.
• Lean kindling sticks against it at a 45 degree angle.
• Place tinder underneath the lean to.
• Add small fuel gradually as it catches.
This is your go to when the wind is howling off Lake Michigan.
 
4. The Long Fire Lay
Best for: Sleeping side heat, winter camp shelters, and directional warmth
The long fire lay is a traditional cold weather setup used for centuries in northern climates. It produces a wide wall of heat that radiates toward a shelter or sleeping area.
Why it works:
• Creates a long, even heat source ideal for warming a whole body.
• Works exceptionally well with Michigan hardwoods that burn hot and slow.
• Pairs perfectly with a reflective barrier or lean to shelter.
How to build it:
• Lay two long logs parallel to each other, about a foot apart.
• Fill the gap with tinder and kindling.
• Add additional long logs on top as the fire burns down.
• Maintain the “log wall” by rolling new logs into place.
This is one of the best winter survival fire lays for deep cold nights. It is the fire lay I recommend with a lean to shelter or super shelter.
 
5. The Siberian Fire Lay
Best for: Extreme cold, deep snow, and all night burns
Designed for harsh northern climates, the Siberian fire lay is built to burn hot and long with minimal tending, which means less work and less energy lost. It’s especially useful when the ground is frozen or snow covered.
Why it works:
• Uses a raised platform to keep the fire off snow and ice and away from meltwater.
• Burns slowly along the length of the main log while the cross logs feed into the coals.
• Produces strong, directional radiant heat for hours, ideal for sleeping alongside or heating a shelter.
How to build it:
• Lay one large log lengthwise on the snow or ground where you want the heat to radiate.
• Build a small fire at one end of the log, creating a solid bed of coals against it.
• Once you have coals, start laying smaller logs perpendicular across the main log, with one end over the coals and the other end resting on the ground or snow.
• As the ends of the cross logs burn, push them inward so fresh wood feeds into the hot zone.
• Continue adding new cross logs as needed to extend burn time along the length of the main log.
This version is incredibly stable in deep winter conditions and is especially good for side sleeping next to the fire or pairing with a lean to.
 
6. The Star Fire
Best for: Fuel conservation and all night burns
This fire lay is simple but brilliant. It uses long logs arranged like spokes of a wheel.
Why it works:
• You can feed the fire slowly by pushing logs inward.
• It burns for hours with minimal effort.
• Works well with Michigan hardwoods like oak, hickory, and maple.
How to build it:
• Arrange five or six long logs in a star pattern.
• Light tinder in the center.
• Push logs inward as they burn.
Great for campsites where you want steady heat without constant rebuilding.
 
Bonus Tips for Michigan Winter Fire Building
Use local hardwoods: Hardwoods burn hotter and longer—ideal for cold nights. Top choices include oak, hickory, maple, beech, and ironwood.
Keep tinder dry by storing it in:
• A pocket
• A waterproof bag
• Inside your jacket (body heat helps)
Build on a platform (snow steals heat). Use:
• Bark
• Small logs
• A flat rock
Reflect heat:
Place a log or reflective barrier behind the fire to bounce warmth back toward you.
 
Final Thoughts:
Michigan winters demand fire lays that are resilient, wind smart, and moisture tolerant. Whether you’re camping in the Upper Peninsula or warming up after a day of ice fishing in West Michigan, choosing the right structure can transform your fire from a struggle into a dependable source of heat and comfort.
 
For training, go to classes at survivalschoolmichigan.com

2/3/26 Michigan Winter Survival Guide: 10 Expert Cold-Weather Tips to Keep You Alive

Michigan winters are brutal—freezing temperatures, heavy snow, and unpredictable storms can turn a simple outing into a survival challenge. Whether you’re exploring the backcountry or hunkering down at home during a blizzard, preparation is key. In this guide, you’ll discover expert cold-weather survival tips to keep you safe, warm, and ready for anything Mother Nature throws your way.
 
#1 Understand the Risks of Cold Weather
Before you head out, know what you’re up against:
Hypothermia. When core temperature drops below 95°F, the body and brain stop working properly. Early signs include shivering, confusion, slurred speech, fatigue, clumsiness, weak but rapid pulse and breathing, pale/cool/dry skin, and frequent urination. As hypothermia progresses, consciousness decreases and the condition can become life-threatening without rapid rewarming and medical care.
Frostbite. Freezing of skin and underlying tissue—most common on fingers, toes, ears, and nose. Watch for color changes that progress from red to white to blue as the injury deepens. Numbness and a hard, waxy feel are red flags. Seek medical attention if you suspect anything beyond mild frostnip.
Dehydration. Cold masks thirst. You still lose fluids through breathing and exertion, and you still need to drink regularly.
 
#2 Dress in Layers
Layering lets you manage heat and moisture as conditions change:
• Base Layer: Moisture-wicking (avoid cotton). Keeps sweat off your skin.
• Insulating Layer: Fleece or wool to trap heat.
• Outer Layer: Waterproof, windproof shell to shield against snow and gusts.
Dial layers up or down to stay warm without sweating—moisture is your enemy in winter.
 
#3 Wear the Right Things
The right clothing and accessories make the difference between comfort and risk:
• Socks: Wool is your friend. Pack an extra dry pair.
• Boots: Waterproof and insulated; a felt lining is highly recommended.
• Scarf: Wool excels. You lose a surprising amount of heat at the neck—block it.
• Hat: Cover your head to control heat loss.
• Gloves: Insulated gloves or mittens. Fingers are early frostbite targets—protect them.
Pro Tip: Keep extra dry socks and gloves in your pack and vehicle. Wet clothing accelerates heat loss.
 
#4 Build an Emergency Shelter
If you’re stranded or camping in winter, shelter buys time and conserves heat:
• Snow Cave: Dig into a drift or bank for excellent insulation. Vent and mark the entrance.
• Lean-To: Branches and a tarp make an effective wind block.
• Insulate the Ground: Pine boughs or a sleeping pad prevent conductive heat loss to frozen earth.
Choose a site out of avalanche paths, with natural wind breaks when possible.
 
#5 Fire-Starting in the Cold
In freezing conditions, fire is your lifeline. Plan redundancy and preparation:
• Carry three ignition methods: waterproof matches, a ferro rod, and a lighter. This is not the time to experiment with a bow drill—arrive prepared.
• Pre-pack dry tinder (fatwood, cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly, or commercial options).
• When you must source in the field, birch bark and fatwood ignite reliably.
• Clear and prepare the site, then lay a wood platform so you’re not burning directly on snow or saturated ground.
• Choose the right fire lay for winter:
o Platform Fire Lay to elevate heat off snow.
o Log Cabin Fire Lay for airflow and a strong, steady burn.
o Long Fire (two large parallel logs) for shelter building, cooking, and radiant heat.
 
#6 Build a Tripod
A simple tripod adds capability to your camp:
• Lash three poles with a tripod lashing (cordage preferred; duct tape works in a pinch).
• Use it as a signal fire stand to elevate flames and smoke above brush or drifted snow.
• Hang a pot to boil and purify water; make warm tea, broth, or stew to replenish calories and fluids.
• Integrate it into your shelter frame or use it to rig a raised bed.
• Improvise camp furniture or a field toilet when you need organization and hygiene.
 
#7 Stay Hydrated and Nourished
Fuel the furnace:
• Melt snow for water, and boil to kill pathogens.
• Pack high-calorie foods: nuts, jerky, energy bars, dried fruit.
• Warm drinks (tea, broth) help maintain core temperature and morale.
Eat and drink small amounts consistently—steady fuel keeps you warm and thinking clearly.
 
#8 Know When to Move and When to Stay Put
Movement wastes energy and can worsen exposure:
• If you’re lost, staying put is often safer than wandering.
• Signal for help: bright clothing, reflective gear, whistle blasts, or a conspicuous fire.
• If you must move, pace yourself. Avoid sweating—overheating leads to wet layers and rapid heat loss when you stop.
 
#9 Prepare a Michigan Winter Survival Kit
Build a kit tuned to Great Lakes winters:
• Insulated clothing and extra layers
• Multiple fire-starting tools
• Emergency blanket or bivy sack
• High-energy food and water purification tablets
• First-aid kit
• Map and compass (never rely solely on GPS)
Add a headlamp, high-visibility bandanna or tarp, metal cup/pot, spare batteries, and a small repair kit (tape, cordage, needle and thread) to level up your readiness.
 
#10 Learn How to Signal for Help in Snowy Conditions
In deep winter, visibility tanks and rescue teams have to fight terrain and weather. Signaling skills save lives:
• Bright Colors: Carry a high-visibility tarp, bandannas, or vest to stand out against snow.
• SOS in the Snow: Stamp or carve large letters in an open area. Bigger is better.
• Reflective Gear: Use mirrors or foil to flash sunlight toward roads or aircraft.
• Fire and Smoke: Build a smoky fire for daytime signaling. Your tripod makes elevating flame and fuel easier and more visible.
 
Safety Note
This guide is for educational purposes. Hypothermia and frostbite are medical emergencies—seek professional care immediately if symptoms escalate. Always tailor decisions to conditions on the ground and your experience level.
 
Final Thoughts
Michigan winters are unforgiving, but with the right survival skills and gear, you can stay safe—and even thrive—in the harshest conditions. Don’t wait until disaster strikes: master these cold-weather survival tips now and respect the raw power of nature.
To learn how to survive, take a course at survivalschoolmichigan.com

2/1/26 How to Read Tracks in Fresh Snow

Fresh snow is the most reliable intelligence source you’ll ever work with. It records movement with perfect clarity, preserves behavior patterns, and exposes intent in a way no other surface can. When you learn to read it, you stop guessing and start knowing. This is the foundation of real tracking—primitive, tactical, and brutally honest.
Fresh snow gives you four categories of information: movement, condition, behavior, and time. Each one matters.
Movement: Stride, Gait, and Direction
Stride length is the first giveaway. Long, even strides show confidence and efficiency. Short, uneven steps reveal fatigue, injury, or someone fighting the terrain. A sudden change in stride—shortening, widening, or staggering—marks a moment where something changed: a sound, a threat, a decision. Direction isn’t just where the toes point. Snow spray at the front of the print shows momentum. Feathering at the back shows lift. Even the angle of the foot entering and exiting the snow tells you whether the traveler was accelerating, slowing, or shifting weight to turn.
Condition: Load, Fatigue, and Stress
Drag marks are the signature of someone carrying weight or losing energy. Toe drags usually mean fatigue or a heavy pack. Heel drags show slipping, rushing downhill, or someone moving without full control. Side drags indicate instability—injury, uneven terrain, or a person under stress. The deeper the drag, the more compromised the traveler. Snow doesn’t hide weakness; it highlights it.
Behavior: Pressure Releases and Intent
Every track has a pressure release—the way weight compresses the snow. Deep toe pressure means acceleration, urgency, or a sudden decision. Deep heel pressure means caution, hesitation, or preparation to stop. Even pressure means calm, steady movement. A sudden deepening of the track often marks a moment of reaction: turning to look, listening, or shifting posture. This is where you read intent. A person who is calm moves differently than a person who is scanning, fleeing, or stalking.
Species Patterns: Predator, Prey, and Human
Humans leave a predictable heel‑to‑toe roll with consistent spacing. Predators like fox, coyote, and bobcat travel in straight, energy‑efficient lines. They don’t waste movement. Prey animals wander, zig‑zag, and stop frequently to feed or scan. Snowshoe hares leave a distinct “Y” pattern that instantly shows direction. Deer tracks widen or tighten depending on alertness. The species tells you the baseline. The pattern tells you the story.
Time: Age, Weather, and Degradation
Snow changes fast, and track age is one of the most valuable pieces of information you can pull. Sharp edges mean the track is fresh. Rounded edges mean wind or melt has softened it. A crusted top means the track was made before a temperature drop. Frost inside the print means it’s older than it looks. Sun exposure melts one side faster than the other, giving you both age and orientation. Time matters because it tells you whether the story you’re reading is still unfolding or already over.
Context: The Story Behind the Line
A single print is a clue. A line of prints is a pattern. A pattern in context becomes a story. Where did they come from. Where are they going. What changed their behavior. What forced the shift in stride or pressure. Snow gives you the raw data. Your job is to interpret it. When you combine movement, condition, behavior, species, and time, you get a full intelligence picture—one that’s often more accurate than anything you’d get from cameras or electronics.
Fresh snow doesn’t lie. It doesn’t exaggerate. It doesn’t forget. It simply records the truth and waits for someone who knows how to read it.

1/29/26 How to Safely Remove Ticks and Protect Yourself: Expert Tips for Prevention

Ticks are more than just a nuisance—they can transmit serious diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Knowing how to remove ticks properly and protect yourself is essential for anyone spending time outdoors. Unfortunately, many people make mistakes that can increase the risk of infection or make tick removal harder. In this article, we’ll cover how to remove ticks safely, how to protect yourself, and four common mistakes you should avoid.
Why Tick Removal Matters
Ticks attach firmly to the skin and feed on blood. If they remain attached for too long, they can transmit pathogens. Tick saliva carries bacteria and viruses, including the bacteria that cause Lyme disease, making proper removal critical.
How to Remove a Tick Correctly
The safest way to remove a tick is with fine-tipped tweezers:
Grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible—right where its mouthparts enter your skin.
Pull upward slowly and steadily. Do not twist or jerk the tick, as this can cause the mouthparts to break off and remain in the skin.
Once removed, disinfect the bite area with alcohol wipes, iodine, or soap and water.
Wash your hands thoroughly.
Four Common Mistakes When Removing Ticks:
1. Burning the Tick to Make It Back Out
Some people try to use a hot match or lighter to burn the tick off. This is a bad idea for two reasons:
It doesn’t work reliably—ticks often stay attached even when burned.
It increases infection risk—heat can cause the tick to release more saliva and pathogens into your skin.
Correct method: Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull upward with steady pressure.
2. Using Liquid Products to Make It Back Out
Applying nail polish, petroleum jelly, or alcohol to “smother” the tick is another common mistake. These methods don’t make the tick detach quickly and can stress the tick, causing it to regurgitate harmful bacteria.
Correct method: Skip the chemicals—stick to tweezers and remove the tick promptly.
3. Throwing the Tick Away Instead of Saving It
After removing a tick, many people toss it in the trash or flush it. Don’t do this. If you develop symptoms later, your doctor may want to identify the tick species or test it for pathogens.
Correct method: Place the tick in a sealed Ziploc bag or small container. Label it with the date and location where you were bitten, and keep it in the freezer until you speak with a healthcare provider.
4. Not Wearing Permethrin-Treated Clothing
One of the best ways to prevent tick bites is wearing clothing treated with permethrin, an insect repellent that kills ticks on contact. Many people skip this step, leaving themselves vulnerable.
Correct method: Treat your shoes, socks, and outdoor clothing with permethrin.
Shoes: Treat once a month from April through October (peak tick season).
Clothing: Follow product instructions for long-lasting protection.
Additional Tick Protection Tips
Perform tick checks after outdoor activities.
Shower within two hours of coming indoors.
Keep grass trimmed and remove leaf litter in your yard.
Final Thoughts
Ticks are persistent, but with the right prevention and removal techniques, you can greatly reduce your risk of tick-borne illness. Avoid these four mistakes, treat your gear with permethrin, and stay vigilant during tick season.
For more information and training, visit survivalschoolmichigan.com