Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute

Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute 2023 in Review

11/19/25 One Year, One Person, One Chance: The Ultimate Dry Goods Survival List

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When the lights go out and the trucks stop rolling, it’s too late to wonder what you should’ve stocked. In a world where the rule of law collapses and survival becomes a daily fight, food isn’t just sustenance—it’s power, leverage, and life itself. This isn’t about comfort. It’s about calories, shelf life, and the cold math of staying alive. Below is the breakdown—one person, one year, no second chances:
 
Staple Carbohydrates (Energy Base)
White rice – 60 lbs
Pasta – 40 lbs
Rolled oats – 30 lbs
Flour (white) – 60 lbs
Cornmeal – 20 lbs
Instant potatoes – 15 lbs
Dry beans (variety) – 60 lbs
Lentils – 20 lbs
Sugar (white or brown) – 60 lbs
Honey or molasses (optional) – 10 lbs
 
Protein Sources
Powdered milk – 20 lbs
Powdered eggs – 6 lbs
Peanut butter powder – 10 lbs
TVP or freeze-dried meat – 10–15 lbs
Protein powder – 5–10 lbs
Jerky (vacuum-sealed) – 5 lbs (optional)
 
Fruits & Vegetables (Dehydrated or Freeze-Dried)
Dehydrated vegetables – 20–30 lbs
Freeze-dried fruits – 15–20 lbs
Tomato powder – 5 lbs
Potato flakes – 10 lbs
Dried mushrooms – 2–3 lbs
 
Baking & Cooking Essentials
Salt – 10 lbs
Baking soda – 2 lbs
Baking powder – 2 lbs
Yeast (vacuum-sealed) – 1 lb
Vinegar powder – 1–2 lbs
Spices (total) – 5 lbs
Bouillon cubes/powder – 2–3 lbs
 
Drink Mixes
Instant coffee/tea – 2–5 lbs
Electrolyte powder – 2–3 lbs
Powdered juice (Tang, etc.) – 5 lbs
Hot cocoa mix – 5 lbs
 
Miscellaneous
Hardtack or pilot bread – 10 lbs
Ramen noodles – 20 packs
Dry soup mixes – 10–15 lbs
Pancake/biscuit mix – 20 lbs
Mylar bags + oxygen absorbers – for repackaging
Manual grain mill – if storing whole wheat or corn
 
This setup gives you around 750–850 lbs of food per person per year, which is a solid baseline for long-term survival. You can adjust based on dietary needs, climate, or physical activity level.
Learn more and shop survival food and emergency kits at survivalschoolmichigan.com

11/18/25 The Day The Internet Died

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The Day the Internet Died
 
It started with silence. A few apps refused to load. A few websites blinked out. Then, like a spreading blackout, the collapse consumed everything. Cloudflare — the unseen backbone of the modern web — had fallen. And with it, the world’s digital lifeline snapped.
 
Spotify went mute. Uber drivers sat idle, their maps frozen. Social networks dissolved into static. Even the systems designed to track outages were swallowed by the void. For hours, humanity stared into the abyss of a world without the internet.
 
The Fragile Empire
We were told the internet was a decentralized marvel, a web too vast to fail. That was a lie. The truth is darker: a handful of companies hold the keys, and when one stumbles, billions are dragged down.
 
One bug in Cloudflare’s systems was enough to fracture the illusion. The outage wasn’t an attack. It wasn’t sabotage. It was worse — proof that the empire we’ve built is fragile, brittle, and terrifyingly easy to break.
 
The Dominoes Waiting to Fall
This was only a glimpse. Imagine if the blackout had lasted days instead of hours.
Stock markets frozen, unable to trade.
Hospitals cut off from critical systems.
Supply chains paralyzed, food and medicine trapped in limbo.
Governments unable to communicate with their citizens.
 
The outage was short-lived, but it revealed the nightmare scenario: the internet is not eternal. It is a tower of cards, and the collapse has already begun.
 
The Beginning of the End?
Next time, it might not be a bug. It could be sabotage. It could be war. It could last longer. And when it does, the blackout won’t just silence your favorite apps — it could silence the world itself.
 
The Cloudflare outage wasn’t just a warning. It was a prophecy. The day the internet truly dies, civilization as we know it will go with it.
 
Want to prepare for the grid going down? Dig into survivalschoolmichigan.com for information, training, and preparedness supplies.

11/18/25 Flintknapping Glass

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Flintknapping Glass — Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute
 
“Working glass is both a challenge and a joy. At Arcturus, we teach that patience, clean strikes, and good habits are the foundation of every successful knapper. Don’t expect perfection at first—expect to break a lot until your hands learn the rhythm of conchoidal fracture.”
 
Safety First
“Glass is unforgiving. Protect your eyes with wraparound safety glasses, and your hands with snug leather gloves. Long sleeves and sturdy shoes are non-negotiable. Glass throws razor flakes and dust—so wear a mask and work outdoors or in good ventilation. Respect the material, and it will respect you.”
 
Choosing Your Glass
“Start with bottle bottoms, cullet, or slag glass. These are affordable and predictable. Avoid tempered or laminated glass—it won’t fracture the way you need it to. A clean, slightly convex blank is your best friend.”
 
Tools of the Trade
“Your billet is your voice. Use antler or copper for soft percussion, and a smooth stone if you need to spall off larger pieces. For refinement, a copper-tipped pressure flaker or antler tine will let you shape and sharpen edges. Always abrade your platforms—strong edges make strong flakes.”
 
Preparing the Blank
“Detach the bottle bottom cleanly, then strike near the edge to create palm-sized spalls. Aim for 6–10 mm thickness. Look for convexity and avoid flaws. A good blank sets the stage for everything that follows.”
 
Core Techniques
• Platform prep: “Grind the edge until it’s dull and sturdy. Keep your platform angle around 60–70°. This is where flakes are born.”
• Percussion reduction: “Strike lightly, just inside the edge, with inward-and-down energy. Let the flakes run across the face.”
• Pressure flaking: “Seat your tool slightly inboard, push and snap downward. This is how you refine symmetry and sharpen edges.”
 
Making a Simple Arrowhead
1. Square and abrade the edge — “Strong platforms are the key to reliable flakes.”
2. Form a bifacial preform — “Alternate faces, keep it lens-shaped, thin to 4–6 mm.”
3. Outline the triangle — “Nibble with pressure flakes, keep both faces convex.”
4. Thin the midline — “Use soft billets sparingly; stop when flakes run clean.”
5. Refine edges and symmetry — “Alternate pressure flaking, abrade often, keep the edge centered.”
6. Shape the base and notches — “Square the base, notch with careful pressure. Balance is everything.”
7. Final sharpening — “A few gentle flakes give you a keen edge. Don’t overwork—glass is quick to chip.”
 
Troubleshooting
• Hinge fractures: “You struck too close or on a weak platform. Build convexity, abrade more, strike inward.”
• Crushed platforms: “Your edge was too sharp or thin. Grind heavier, use a softer billet, lighten your strikes.”
• Overshots/snaps: “Too much force or too thin a midline. Ease up, preserve thickness, keep faces domed.”
 
Practice Wisdom
“Start with larger blanks—they forgive mistakes. Watch experienced hands, mimic their rhythm, and take notes on your own strikes. When flakes stop running, don’t force it—re-prep your platforms. Flintknapping is a dialogue with the stone or glass. Listen carefully, and it will teach you.”
 
“I am practicing this ancient art, and like you, am merely a student forever seeking to hone my skills. Hopefully I will see you in the wild!”
 

11/18/25 Everyday Vehicles with a Purpose: Practical Preparedness on Four Wheels

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Everyday Vehicles with a Purpose: Practical Preparedness on Four Wheels
 
By Art Knapp, Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute
 
When it comes to preparedness, your vehicle is more than just a way to get from point A to point B—it’s a mobile lifeline. The key is to choose something that doesn’t scream “prepper,” but still has the bones to carry you through tough times.
 
Start with a crew cab 4WD pickup. It’s a solid platform—room for people, gear, and the ability to tow or haul just about anything. Add extended-range fuel tanks if you can, and make sure it’s got a towing package and a camper shell. That shell turns your truck bed into a secure, weather-resistant storage space—or even a temporary shelter.
 
Color matters. Stick with flat, natural tones—forest green, tan, brown, or gray. These blend into rural and wooded environments without drawing attention. Avoid camouflage paint jobs. They don’t make you invisible—they make you a target for curiosity or suspicion. You want to look like a contractor, not a commando.
 
Keep a few cans of flat spray paint in earth tones on hand. If the situation ever truly deteriorates, you can dull down chrome trim and reflective surfaces. But don’t do it prematurely—there’s no need to raise eyebrows at the gas station.
 
I also recommend picking up a military surplus camouflage net and support poles for each vehicle. These can be used to break up the outline of your vehicle if you ever need to park it in a concealed location for an extended period.
 
Here are a few more tips from the field:
• Tires: Invest in high-quality all-terrain tires. Keep a full-size spare, a patch kit, and a portable air compressor in the truck at all times.
• Electrical: Add a dual-battery system if possible. One battery for starting, one for accessories—especially if you’re running radios, lights, or refrigeration.
• Storage: Use lockable, weatherproof containers in the bed for tools, recovery gear, and emergency supplies. Keep it organized and accessible.
• Maintenance: Know your vehicle inside and out. Carry spare belts, fluids, and filters. Learn how to do basic repairs yourself.
• Documentation: Keep a paper map, a compass, and a notebook in the glove box. GPS is great—until it isn’t.
 
Remember, the goal isn’t to look tactical. It’s to be quietly capable. Your vehicle should be a tool, not a billboard. Blend in, stay ready, and keep moving forward.
 
Learn more here at survivalschoolmichigan.com

11/15/25 Monkey Paw: The Everyday Keychain That’s Banned in 8 States

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The “Monkey Paw,” more commonly known as the Monkey Fist, is a compact tool fashioned from paracord wrapped around a steel ball and carried for discreet personal protection. Its origins lie in the sailor’s knot once used to weigh down ropes, but over time it evolved into a defensive implement. Modern versions are paracord keychains with a steel ball core, typically about an inch in diameter. Though it may appear to be nothing more than a harmless accessory, when swung it delivers a powerful, concentrated strike. The physics of impact make the steel ball effective by adding weight, transforming the paracord knot into a small but formidable striking weapon.
Carried on a keychain or tucked into a pocket, the Monkey Paw can be swung to hit an attacker, causing pain or distraction and giving the user a chance to escape. Its discreet design allows it to pass as a rope knot or lanyard, making it less conspicuous than traditional weapons. Key features include the steel ball core, a military-grade paracord exterior, its dual function as both a striking weapon and survival tool, portability in a keychain-sized form, and a non-lethal design intended to bruise or stun rather than kill.
Legal and safety considerations are critical, as laws vary by region and in some places monkey fists are classified as concealed weapons. Carrying or possessing a Monkey Fist knot that is made with a heavy core such as a steel ball or a marble and is used or intended to be used as a weapon—often referred to as a slungshot—is illegal in eight U.S. states. States that reportedly prohibit the carrying or possession of a slungshot or Monkey Fist knot used as a weapon include California, Oklahoma, Massachusetts, Michigan, Nevada, Washington, Minnesota, and New Hampshire. They are meant to serve as a last-resort self-defense tool rather than for aggression, and their effectiveness depends on proper training and control.
Historically, sailors adapted monkey fists into slungshots, rope weapons used in fights, and today they are marketed as everyday carry self-defense tools, especially for women, runners, and those seeking non-lethal protection. In short, the Monkey Paw or Monkey Fist is a discreet paracord keychain with a steel ball inside, designed as a non-lethal self-defense weapon. It is effective for delivering quick strikes but must always be carried with responsibility and respect for the law.
 
“Best of luck to all hitting the woods for Michigan’s rifle opener — may your aim be true!”
 
Learn more right here at survivalschoolmichigan.com

Rugged Firewood Wisdom: 5 Rules to Keep Your Pile Strong

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Michigan was blasted with its first big winter storm over the past couple days, dropping more than a foot of snow in parts of the Upper Peninsula and heavy lake-effect bands across the state, according to ABC News.
 
Survival isn’t just about striking sparks—it’s about keeping your fuel bone-dry, ready, and reliable. Here are the five hard-earned rules every woodsman, homesteader, and backcountry prepper needs to know:
 
1️⃣ Cover Your Wood Pile
Your firewood is your lifeline. Rain, snow, and sleet will rot it faster than you think. A tarp or lean-to keeps the pile dry while still letting it breathe. Think of it as armor for your fuel—without it, you’re burning mold and misery.
 
2️⃣ Keep Your Wood Off the Ground (Raise It with Pallets)
Moisture creeps up from the soil like a thief in the night. By stacking on pallets or rails, you stop rot, bugs, and fungus from eating your supply. Elevated wood = clean burn, less smoke, more heat.
 
3️⃣ Bark Side Up When Stacking
Bark is nature’s shield. Stack with bark facing upward and it deflects rain like shingles on a roof. Flip it wrong, and you’ve built a sponge instead of a fortress. This simple trick keeps your pile dry from the top down.
 
4️⃣ Keep It in the Wind for Good Airflow
Airflow is the secret weapon of seasoning wood. Stagnant piles stay damp, but wind strips moisture away. Ideal direction? West-to-east winds—they’re the most common across North America, giving your stack a natural drying tunnel. Harness the breeze, and your wood cures faster and burns hotter.
 
5️⃣ Put Your Wood in Sunlight
The sun is your ally. UV and heat bake out the moisture, turning green logs into seasoned fuel. Shade breeds mold; sunlight breeds fire. Position your pile where it gets maximum exposure—your stove will thank you.
 
This isn’t just stacking wood—it’s stacking survival. Follow these rules and your firewood will stay rugged, reliable, and ready to roar when the cold bites. 

Turkey Tail Mushroom: The Forest’s Toughest Healer

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The turkey tail mushroom (Trametes versicolor) is a tough, wood-loving fungus that thrives on dead hardwood in forests across the globe. Its name comes from its layered, fan-like shape and earthy bands of brown, gray, and rust, resembling the tail feathers of a wild turkey. It’s not flashy, but it is definitely unmistakable.
This mushroom isn’t just a survivor—it’s a healer. Used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine, turkey tail is packed with immune-modulating compounds like PSK (polysaccharide-K) and PSP (polysaccharide peptide). These have been studied for their ability to support cancer therapies, improve gut health, and strengthen immune response. In Japan, PSK is even approved as a cancer adjunct therapy.
At Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute, it is one of the mushrooms I point out and cover when we go on a foraging mission. Sometimes I will even make a tea out of it.
How to prepare turkey tail tea:
1. Identify and Harvest Carefully • Look for Trametes versicolor growing on dead hardwood. • Confirm identification: real turkey tail has white pores underneath, unlike the smooth underside of false turkey tail (Stereum ostrea). • Harvest sustainably—cut rather than rip, and leave some behind to continue decomposing the wood.
2. Clean the Mushrooms • Brush off dirt and debris. • Rinse briefly in cold water, then pat dry. • Avoid soaking, as this can degrade the mushroom’s texture and potency.
3. Dry for Storage (Optional) • If not using immediately, dry the mushrooms in a dehydrator or by air-drying in a well-ventilated space. • Store in a sealed jar away from light and moisture.
4. Brew the Tea • Use about 2–4 grams of dried turkey tail (or 4–8 grams fresh) per cup of water. • Add mushrooms to a pot with water. • Simmer gently for at least 1 hour, up to 2 hours for stronger extraction. • Optional: add ginger, cinnamon, or lemon to improve flavor.
5. Strain and Serve • Strain out the mushroom pieces using a fine mesh or cheesecloth. • Drink warm or refrigerate for later use. • The taste is earthy and slightly bitter; some prefer mixing it with herbal teas or honey.
6. Dosage and Frequency • Many people drink 1–2 cups daily for immune support. • Effects are cumulative, so consistency matters more than quantity.
Turkey tail is a symbol of endurance. It grows year-round, even in harsh conditions, quietly recycling dead wood into fertile soil. It’s one of the first mushrooms foragers learn to identify—not because it’s edible, but because it’s safe, common, and medicinally potent.
Turkey tail has the following medicinal applications:
• Immune System Modulation Rich in polysaccharides like PSK and PSP, turkey tail helps regulate immune responses. It’s used to support recovery during chemotherapy and radiation and may enhance the body’s ability to fight infections.
• Anti-Cancer Properties PSK is approved in Japan as an adjunct cancer therapy. Studies show it may help slow tumor growth and improve survival rates when used alongside conventional treatments.
• Gut Health and Microbiome Support Turkey tail contains prebiotic fibers that nourish beneficial gut bacteria. This can improve digestion, reduce inflammation, and support overall metabolic health.
• Anti-Inflammatory Effects The mushroom’s bioactive compounds may help reduce systemic inflammation, which is linked to chronic diseases like arthritis, heart disease, and autoimmune conditions.
• Blood Sugar Regulation Some studies suggest turkey tail may help lower blood glucose levels in people with type 2 diabetes, potentially aiding in metabolic control.
• Cognitive and Nervous System Support Early research indicates potential neuroprotective effects, including improved memory and brain function, possibly due to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Liver Protection Turkey tail may help protect liver cells from damage caused by toxins or infections, though more research is needed to confirm this benefit.
• Antiviral and Antibacterial Activity Extracts from turkey tail have shown promise in fighting viruses and bacteria, making it a candidate for natural antimicrobial support.
These benefits are typically accessed through capsules, powders, or tinctures, as the mushroom itself is too tough to eat. While promising, it is important to consult a healthcare provider before using turkey tail therapeutically, especially alongside other treatments.

Milkweed & Dogbane: A Comparative Guide to Their Practical and Medicinal Value

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At first glance, Milkweed and Dogbane might seem like twins in the wild—both flaunt clusters of delicate flowers, thrive in similar habitats, and exude a milky white sap that hints at their toxic nature. But beneath their botanical resemblance lies a compelling story of ecological roles and practical significance. This article explores the subtle yet vital differences between these two native North American plants.
 
Milkweed (genus Asclepias) is a perennial herb recognized for its milky sap and vibrant clusters of pink to orange flowers. Native to North America, it is best known as the host plant for monarch butterflies. I often find it growing abundantly near ditches and along roadsides in West Michigan.
 
Historically, Native American tribes used various parts of milkweed to treat: • Respiratory infections • Digestive disorders • Skin wounds • Rheumatism
 
The roots were commonly brewed into teas to ease coughing and asthma-like symptoms. I’ve been told the white sap can be applied to warts. Like dogbane, milkweed stalks contain fibrous layers that can be reverse wrapped into cordage. The silk from the pods makes excellent tinder when dry—a practice I regularly teach during the fire portion of my courses. The ovum inside the pods will catch a spark and form an ember, much like char cloth.
 
How to Reverse Wrap Milkweed Stalks:
1. Harvest and Dry the Stalks • Collect mature stalks late in the season. • Strip off leaves and lightly crush the stems. • Allow them to dry completely for easier fiber extraction.
2. Extract the Fibers • Split the stalks lengthwise. • Peel away the outer bark to expose the fibrous strands. • Separate and clean the fibers by hand or with a comb.
3. Prepare the Strands • Group fibers into two bundles of roughly equal thickness. • Slightly moisten them to enhance flexibility.
4. Begin Reverse Wrapping • Hold the two bundles together at one end. • Twist the top bundle away from you (clockwise), then wrap it over the bottom bundle (counterclockwise). • Repeat: twist one strand, wrap it over the other. • Continue until you reach the desired length.
5. Finish and Use • Tie off the ends or splice in additional fibers to extend. • Use your cordage for bowstrings, snares, fishing lines, or shelter construction.
 
Milkweed cordage is remarkably strong—two-ply yarn-thick rope can hold over 50 pounds, and thicker versions have even been used to tow vehicles. If you want to try your hand at making cordage from milkweed, join us at Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute.
 
Dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum), also known as Indian hemp or wild cotton, carries a dual legacy—revered for its robust fibers and cautiously respected for its potent medicinal properties. Though toxic in large doses, it has long been used for both healing and crafting.
Historically, Native American tribes used various parts of dogbane to treat: • Heart and circulatory issues • Intestinal worms • Syphilis • Rheumatism
 
Although it has medicinal applications, I generally avoid using it this way due to its toxicity. Instead, dogbane is my top choice for wild-sourced cordage.
 
Step-by-Step Guide to Reverse Wrapping Dogbane Cordage:
1. Harvest Dogbane Stalks • Collect mature stalks in late summer or fall when the plant has dried. • Strip off leaves and break the stalks to access the inner bark.
2. Extract the Fibers • Split the stalks lengthwise and peel away the outer bark. • Carefully separate the silky inner fibers—these are your cordage material. • Let the fibers dry, then rehydrate slightly to improve flexibility.
3. Prepare the Bundles • Group fibers into two equal bundles. • Tie a knot at one end or pinch it between your fingers to anchor the starting point.
4. Reverse Wrap Technique • Twist one bundle clockwise (away from you). • Wrap it counterclockwise (toward you) over the other bundle. • Repeat: twist one strand, wrap it over the other. • This creates a two-ply cord with opposing tension, making it strong and durable.
5. Splicing for Length • When a bundle runs short, overlap new fibers and continue twisting. • This allows you to extend the cordage indefinitely.
6. Finishing • Tie off the end or burn it slightly to seal. • Use the cordage for lashing, fishing, bow drills, traps, or crafting.
 
Tips and Insights: • Dogbane fibers are stronger than cotton and rival commercial twine in durability. • Reverse wrapping creates a rope that resists unraveling and handles tension well. Try it with other plants, stalks, fibers, and even bark. • This technique also works beautifully with nettle, yucca, and other fibrous plants.
 
I’ll see you in the wild. Learn more at survivalschoolmichigan.com
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