Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute

Michigan bushcraft skills

10 Bushcraft Fishing Weight Methods Used in Wilderness Survival (Inspired by the Show Alone)

by
Fans of the survival show Alone know that contestants often fail not because of predators or weather, but because they cannot secure enough food—making these 10 proven wilderness methods for crafting improvised fishing weights essential knowledge for anyone serious about real survival.
 
If you have ever watched the show Alone, you already understand why it has become one of the most compelling survival programs ever produced. It strips away the romanticism of wilderness living and exposes the raw reality of what it takes to endure in true isolation. As someone who studies and teaches primitive skills, I find the show especially valuable because it reveals the real factors that determine who thrives and who taps out.
 
At Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute, we analyze real-world survival scenarios to help people build the mindset and skillset needed to succeed outdoors. Alone offers a unique window into both.
 
After watching season after season, two reasons consistently stand out as the primary causes contestants give up and go home.
 
The Two Biggest Reasons Contestants Leave Alone
1. Medical Problems
While injuries are expected in a wilderness setting, the more dangerous issues often come from starvation and rapid, unhealthy weight loss. Contestants frequently lose weight at a rate that would be considered medically unsafe under normal circumstances. The show’s medical team regularly pulls participants when their vitals drop into dangerous territory.
 
2. Psychological and Emotional Strain
Isolation, anxiety, and overwhelming loneliness break down even the most skilled outdoorsmen and women. The mental battle is relentless. Many viewers describe Alone as a contest of who can starve the slowest while maintaining enough psychological resilience to keep going. That description is surprisingly accurate.
 
Why Fishing Is One of the Most Critical Survival Skills
Fishing is one of the most reliable ways to slow starvation and maintain energy. But what happens when you do not have the right equipment—or when you have everything except one essential component: weights?
 
This is where true bushcraft knowledge becomes invaluable. With the right skills, you can create effective fishing weights from natural or improvised materials found in almost any wilderness environment.
 
Below is a refined, comprehensive guide to acquiring or crafting fishing weights in the wild, based on practical bushcraft principles taught at Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute.
How to Make Fishing Weights in the Wilderness: 10 Proven Methods Using Natural and Improvised Materials
 
1. Small Stones or Pebbles
Select smooth, dense stones that are oval and oblong. Wrap them with cordage, a bark strip, or a clove hitch tied around a carved groove. If the clove hitch is not working, upgrade to a constrictor knot. Ideal for still water or slow-moving streams.
 
2. Clay
If natural clay is available, shape a small ball around your line and let it air-dry. It is not as dense as metal, but it works surprisingly well and is easy to produce.
 
3. Sand-Filled Pouches
Use cloth, leather, or a leaf bundle. Fill it with sand or gravel and tie it off. This method is excellent when you need a heavier weight but lack suitable stones.
Improvised Gear from Your Kit
 
4. Nuts, Bolts, or Washers
If you carry repair gear, these items make perfect sinkers. They are dense, easy to tie on, and extremely reliable.
 
5. Paracord Inner Strands with a Rock
Use the inner strands to create a small net or wrap that holds a rock securely. This method works even with wet hands.
 
6. Spent Brass Casings
In an area known for hunting, fill brass casings you find with dirt or small stones and crimp the end. Only use what you already have and always pack out what you bring in. Crimp it closed with your multitool (I carry a Leatherman).
Bushcraft Techniques
 
7. Split-Stick Stone Holder
Split the end of a small stick, insert a pebble into the split, and tie the stick to your line. The stick grips the stone firmly without requiring cordage.
 
8. Bone Fragments
If animal remains are available, bone can be shaped into a crude weight. Use a dense joint or knuckle bone, carve a groove or drill a hole with a stone tool, and tie it to your line. Bone is durable and can be shaped precisely, though it requires time and tools and is not very heavy unless large.
 
9. Small Plastic Bag or Similar Container
If you have a small bag such as a zip-top bag, fill it with gravel or small stones and secure it to your line with a constrictor knot. This method provides adjustable weight and works well when other materials are limited.
 
10. Knot-Weighted Line
When you only need a very light sinker, tying several overhand knots close together can add just enough weight to get your bait below the surface. This is especially useful for micro-fishing or delicate presentations.
 
Final Thoughts
Survival is not about having perfect gear. It is about understanding how to adapt, improvise, and use the environment to your advantage. The struggles seen on Alone highlight the importance of both mental resilience and practical skill.
 
At Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute, we believe anyone can learn these techniques with the right training and mindset. Whether you are preparing for backcountry adventures, building your bushcraft foundation, or simply fascinated by real-world survival, mastering improvised fishing weights is a small but powerful step toward true self-reliance.
 
For classes, more content, gear and supplies visit: survivalschoolmichigan.com

Hotter, Longer Burning Fires: The Michigan Winter Fire Lay Guide You Need

by
Michigan winters don’t play around (especially in 2026). Between lake effect snow, damp air, and temperatures that swing from chilly to downright punishing, building a dependable fire becomes more than a cozy pastime—it’s a survival skill. The right fire lay can mean the difference between a roaring, heat throwing blaze and a smoky disappointment that fizzles under wet wood and icy wind.
 
This guide breaks down the most effective fire lays for Michigan’s winter conditions, why they work, and when to use each one.
 
Why Fire Lays Matter More in Michigan Winters
Cold weather fire building is a different game entirely. Michigan adds a few unique challenges:
• Moisture everywhere: Snow covered wood, damp ground, and humidity means slow ignition.
• Wind exposure: Open fields, frozen lakes, and forest gaps create unpredictable drafts.
• Cold soaked materials: Even “dry” wood can be too cold to catch without proper structure.
• Fuel demand: Fires burn faster in cold air, so efficiency matters.
A smart fire lay compensates for all of this by improving airflow, protecting the flame, and maximizing heat reflection.
 
1. The Log Cabin Fire Lay
Best for: Long lasting heat, even cooking heat, and warming a shelter
The Log Cabin Fire Lay structure is a Michigan classic for a reason. It creates a stable, square frame that traps heat and encourages upward airflow.
Why it works in winter:
• The stacked walls act as a wind buffer.
• The open center creates a chimney effect with good air flow, helping cold wood ignite.
• It burns slow and steady, ideal for long evenings, cooking, drying clothes or warming a tent area.
How to build it:
• Lay two thick logs parallel.
• Add two more logs on top, perpendicular.
• Continue stacking like a cabin, leaving a hollow center.
• Place tinder and kindling inside the “room.”
This fire lay excels when you need a reliable fire.
 
2. The Upside Down (Top Down) Fire Lay
Best for: Wet conditions, minimal tending, and efficient heat
Michigan’s damp winters make this one a powerhouse. Instead of lighting from the bottom, you reverse the order.
Why it works:
• The fire dries the wood as it burns downward.
• It produces less smoke, even with imperfect fuel.
• It requires very little maintenance—great for long nights.
How to build it:
• Start with your largest logs on the bottom.
• Add medium logs on top.
• Add kindling above that.
• Finish with tinder at the very top.
Light the top, and the fire slowly consumes the layers beneath.
 
3. The Lean To Fire
Best for: Windy days and quick heat
Michigan’s winter winds can kill a fire before it starts. The lean to fire lay uses a large log as a windbreak and support.
Why it works:
• Shields the flame from gusts.
• Directs heat back toward the tinder.
• Ignites quickly—ideal for warming cold hands fast.
How to build it:
• Place a thick log on the ground.
• Lean kindling sticks against it at a 45 degree angle.
• Place tinder underneath the lean to.
• Add small fuel gradually as it catches.
This is your go to when the wind is howling off Lake Michigan.
 
4. The Long Fire Lay
Best for: Sleeping side heat, winter camp shelters, and directional warmth
The long fire lay is a traditional cold weather setup used for centuries in northern climates. It produces a wide wall of heat that radiates toward a shelter or sleeping area.
Why it works:
• Creates a long, even heat source ideal for warming a whole body.
• Works exceptionally well with Michigan hardwoods that burn hot and slow.
• Pairs perfectly with a reflective barrier or lean to shelter.
How to build it:
• Lay two long logs parallel to each other, about a foot apart.
• Fill the gap with tinder and kindling.
• Add additional long logs on top as the fire burns down.
• Maintain the “log wall” by rolling new logs into place.
This is one of the best winter survival fire lays for deep cold nights. It is the fire lay I recommend with a lean to shelter or super shelter.
 
5. The Siberian Fire Lay
Best for: Extreme cold, deep snow, and all night burns
Designed for harsh northern climates, the Siberian fire lay is built to burn hot and long with minimal tending, which means less work and less energy lost. It’s especially useful when the ground is frozen or snow covered.
Why it works:
• Uses a raised platform to keep the fire off snow and ice and away from meltwater.
• Burns slowly along the length of the main log while the cross logs feed into the coals.
• Produces strong, directional radiant heat for hours, ideal for sleeping alongside or heating a shelter.
How to build it:
• Lay one large log lengthwise on the snow or ground where you want the heat to radiate.
• Build a small fire at one end of the log, creating a solid bed of coals against it.
• Once you have coals, start laying smaller logs perpendicular across the main log, with one end over the coals and the other end resting on the ground or snow.
• As the ends of the cross logs burn, push them inward so fresh wood feeds into the hot zone.
• Continue adding new cross logs as needed to extend burn time along the length of the main log.
This version is incredibly stable in deep winter conditions and is especially good for side sleeping next to the fire or pairing with a lean to.
 
6. The Star Fire
Best for: Fuel conservation and all night burns
This fire lay is simple but brilliant. It uses long logs arranged like spokes of a wheel.
Why it works:
• You can feed the fire slowly by pushing logs inward.
• It burns for hours with minimal effort.
• Works well with Michigan hardwoods like oak, hickory, and maple.
How to build it:
• Arrange five or six long logs in a star pattern.
• Light tinder in the center.
• Push logs inward as they burn.
Great for campsites where you want steady heat without constant rebuilding.
 
Bonus Tips for Michigan Winter Fire Building
Use local hardwoods: Hardwoods burn hotter and longer—ideal for cold nights. Top choices include oak, hickory, maple, beech, and ironwood.
Keep tinder dry by storing it in:
• A pocket
• A waterproof bag
• Inside your jacket (body heat helps)
Build on a platform (snow steals heat). Use:
• Bark
• Small logs
• A flat rock
Reflect heat:
Place a log or reflective barrier behind the fire to bounce warmth back toward you.
 
Final Thoughts:
Michigan winters demand fire lays that are resilient, wind smart, and moisture tolerant. Whether you’re camping in the Upper Peninsula or warming up after a day of ice fishing in West Michigan, choosing the right structure can transform your fire from a struggle into a dependable source of heat and comfort.
 
For training, go to classes at survivalschoolmichigan.com

Best tinder material in the wild

by

Over time I have experimented with various different tinder material while out in the wild. Most tinders in the wild can fit into 1 of three categories: inner/outer bark of trees, woody stalks/outer fibers, light fluffy material/seed heads. In the first category of inner and outer tree barks, in particular I like: cedar, willow, paper birch (perfect for cold and wet weather; good initial tinder), aspen, poplar, tulip poplar (hard to find this far north) and some pines. As far as wood stalks/outer fibers I like: milkweed, fireweed, thistle and stinging nettle. As far as light fluffy material/seed heads I have had luck using several different plants, such as cattail. To use cattail as a tinder, first gather it, tie the stems together and hang upside down and let air dry for 2-3 weeks for a “flash” tinder. My first successful bow drill fire was lit using cattail as tinder. Dried out goldenrod is another good tinder source. Not only is goldenrod a good tinder source, it has numerous medicinal uses. Another favorite tinder of mine is the white fluffy silk of milkweed. This is the real fine stuff that floats through the air and goes all over the place. Inside the milkweed pod, from where the white fluffy stuff comes from, you can find a light brown papery material which is the plants ovum. This too is also good for starting fires. There are of course numerous other tinder sources out there in the wild. So get out there and experiment. I hope to see you sometime in the wild. Come train with me at Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute.

Featherstick Material

by

When carving feathersticks for fire lighting, I have found that the best woods to use are similar to wood you would use for a bowdrill set. Like with a bow drill set, I have had good luck making feathersticks from cedar, willow and certain types of pine. I have been told that Sweet Chestnut, Sycamore and Ash also work very well for making feathersticks. Some bushcrafters have also claimed luck making feathersticks out of oak and maple, but in my experience, I tend to have better luck with softer wood. I would imagine that tulip poplar would work well for feathersticks; it certainly works well for bow drill sets, for making birds nests and for tinder. I have found that I am a little too far north for tulip poplar to grow, however, I swear I found a tulip poplar tree nearby a creek south of Whitehall, Michigan, which needless to say surprised me (maybe I’m wrong). So get out there, practice making feathersticks, and come see me sometime at Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute. Stay safe out there and I will see you in the wild.

Char Cloth Material

by

Over time, I have tried numerous different materials when experimenting with char cloth. Some of the materials I have used include: punk wood, cattail leaves, pampas grass, cut up t-shirts, cut up bandannas, rolled up cotton balls, dried mullein leaves and a variety of dead plant material. What I have learned with char cloth is that it needs to be 100% natural plant fiber to work best. I have found that the thicker the material, the better it will hold a spark. I have seen some bushcrafters use cut up long underwear. While I have found that this does work, I find it to be too brittle and that it crumbles too easily. My current favorite material to use is from cut up jeans. One hundred percent cotton jeans. Even more effective than just cutting up 1 inch squares of jeans to char, try cutting along the length of the seam. Cut a section about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Roll it up lengthwise, put it in your tin and char it. This will give you the best char cloth with the most effective ember I have seen. A similar technique involves coiling the fabric like a rope and charring it. You want to make sure you are using the right material. I learned this lesson the hard way in 2015 at Self Reliance Outfitters ran by Dave Canterbury. I had purchased one of his metal water bottles. I had also purchased a (cheap) bandanna at an outlet mall prior to my arrival at his school. When I cut up the bandanna and tried to char it in the water bottle, I melted the material inside the container, ruining my nice water bottle. This bandanna was not cotton. Make sure you are using natural plant fibers such as cotton. If you are looking for a natural alternative to char cloth, consider using Milkweed pod ovum, as it will take a spark. Another natural alternative is tinder fungus, also known as chaga. This fungus can be found growing on birch trees. At Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute, you will learn to make char cloth using different materials. You will also learn how to use your char cloth to make a primitive fire. See you in the wild.

Contact us if you have additional questions about a class! [email protected]
Copyright 2022 Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute  | All Rights Reserved