Wood Ash Secrets: The Forgotten Cleaning and Hygiene Tool Every Home Should Use Safely

Wood ash has been part of human life for thousands of years, yet most people today sweep it out of the fireplace without a second thought. That’s a mistake. When used correctly, wood ash becomes a versatile, zero cost resource for cleaning, hygiene, gardening, and even emergency preparedness.
 
This guide breaks down the most effective and practical uses of wood ash, how to make it properly, and the precautions you need to take. You’ll learn how to turn hardwood ash into toothpaste, body soap, shampoo, and even a powerful dish scrubbing agent for pots, pans, and Dutch ovens.
 
Why Hardwood Ash Matters:
Not all ash is created equal. For any cleaning or hygiene use, always use ash from hardwoods, such as:
• Oak
• Maple
• Hickory
• Beech
• Ash (the tree, not the byproduct)
• Birch
Hardwoods burn hotter and produce ash rich in potassium carbonate—an essential ingredient for making lye water, the foundation of traditional soaps.
Avoid softwoods like pine, fir, or spruce. They contain resins and sap that can irritate skin, damage cookware, and leave sticky residues.
 
1. Wood Ash Toothpaste
Wood ash has been used as a tooth cleaning agent for centuries. When made correctly, it becomes a mild abrasive that helps remove plaque and stains.
Tips for Wood Ash Toothpaste:
1. Use only the light, powdery ash. The pale, fine ash contains the mild alkaline salts you want; darker ash usually means unburned carbon, which is too abrasive.
2. Sift thoroughly. Removing charcoal pieces isn’t just about texture—charcoal chunks can scratch enamel. A fine mesh strainer or cloth works well.
3. Use very small amounts. A tiny pinch is enough. More ash doesn’t mean better cleaning; it just increases abrasiveness.
4. Keep the paste thin. A watery paste is gentler on enamel than a thick, gritty one.
5. Brush lightly. Let the alkaline chemistry do the work. Hard scrubbing plus abrasive ash is a bad combination.
6. Rinse thoroughly. Ash is alkaline, so rinsing well helps restore the mouth’s natural balance.
Precautions:
• Use sparingly—wood ash is alkaline and abrasive.
• Do not swallow.
• Avoid if you have sensitive gums or enamel issues.
• This is best used as an emergency or occasional option, not a daily routine.
 
2. Wood Ash Body Soap and Shampoo
Traditional soapmaking begins with lye, and lye can be made from hardwood ash. This is one of the oldest forms of soap on earth.
How to Make Lye Water from Wood Ash:
1. Fill a container with clean hardwood ash.
2. Slowly pour hot water over the ash.
3. Let it sit for several hours or overnight.
4. Strain the liquid—this is your lye water.
Turning Lye Water Into Soap:
• Mix lye water with rendered animal fat or a plant oil.
• Heat gently and stir until it thickens.
• Pour into molds and let it cure.
This produces a basic but effective soap that can be used for body washing or shampoo in a pinch.
Pairing Soapmaking With Hot Water:
When using ash based soap outdoors or in a camp setting, keep a pot of hot water on the fire. This makes rinsing easier, improves cleaning power, and helps dissolve any leftover soap residue.
 
3. Wood Ash for Scrubbing Dishes, Pots, Pans, and Dutch Ovens
Wood ash is a surprisingly effective scouring agent. Its fine grit and alkalinity cut through grease and baked on food.
How to Use Wood Ash for Cleaning Cookware:
1. Scoop a small amount of sifted hardwood ash.
2. Add a splash of water to form a gritty paste.
3. Use a cloth or scrub brush to work it into the surface.
4. Rinse thoroughly with hot water—again, keeping a pot of hot water on the fire makes this much easier.
Works Especially Well On:
• Cast iron
• Dutch ovens
• Stainless steel
• Outdoor cookware
Avoid using ash on aluminum, as the alkalinity can discolor or pit the metal.
 
4. Wood Ash as a Natural Shampoo
If you don’t want to make full soap, you can use diluted lye water as a hair cleanser.
How to Use It:
• Mix one part lye water with three parts clean water.
• Massage into the scalp.
• Rinse thoroughly with hot water.
This method strips oils effectively, so it’s best for occasional use or emergency situations.
 
5. Safety and Precautions
Wood ash is powerful and must be handled with respect.
Key Precautions:
• Use only hardwood ash for any hygiene or cleaning purpose.
• Sift the ash thoroughly to remove charcoal pieces before use.
• Avoid inhaling ash dust—it can irritate the lungs.
• Wear gloves when handling lye water or ash paste.
• Dilute lye water properly to avoid overly strong, corrosive solutions.
• Do not use on aluminum cookware.
• Test on a small patch of skin first if using as soap or shampoo.
• Store ash in a dry container to prevent accidental lye formation from moisture.
 
6. Bonus Uses for Wood Ash
While this article focuses on hygiene and cleaning, wood ash has many other uses:
• Garden fertilizer
• Ice melt
• Odor absorber
• Rust remover
• Compost additive
Each of these deserves its own guide, but they highlight just how valuable ash can be.
 
Final Thoughts: Don’t Throw Away That Ash
Hardwood ash is one of the most underrated resources available to anyone with a fireplace, wood stove, or campfire. With a little knowledge and a few precautions, you can turn it into toothpaste, soap, shampoo, and a powerful cleaning agent for cookware.
It’s sustainable, free, and rooted in centuries of practical wisdom. The next time you clean out your fire pit, think twice before tossing that ash—it might be the most useful thing you burned all week. And when the grid goes down or you find yourself in a true survival situation, this may be the only form of soap you’ll have access to, making the skill even more valuable.
 
For more content, gear, or classes visit: survivalschoolmichigan.com
 

Everyday Vehicles with a Purpose: Practical Preparedness on Four Wheels

Everyday Vehicles with a Purpose: Practical Preparedness on Four Wheels
 
By Art Knapp, Arcturus Primitive Skills Institute
 
When it comes to preparedness, your vehicle is more than just a way to get from point A to point B—it’s a mobile lifeline. The key is to choose something that doesn’t scream “prepper,” but still has the bones to carry you through tough times.
 
Start with a crew cab 4WD pickup. It’s a solid platform—room for people, gear, and the ability to tow or haul just about anything. Add extended-range fuel tanks if you can, and make sure it’s got a towing package and a camper shell. That shell turns your truck bed into a secure, weather-resistant storage space—or even a temporary shelter.
 
Color matters. Stick with flat, natural tones—forest green, tan, brown, or gray. These blend into rural and wooded environments without drawing attention. Avoid camouflage paint jobs. They don’t make you invisible—they make you a target for curiosity or suspicion. You want to look like a contractor, not a commando.
 
Keep a few cans of flat spray paint in earth tones on hand. If the situation ever truly deteriorates, you can dull down chrome trim and reflective surfaces. But don’t do it prematurely—there’s no need to raise eyebrows at the gas station.
 
I also recommend picking up a military surplus camouflage net and support poles for each vehicle. These can be used to break up the outline of your vehicle if you ever need to park it in a concealed location for an extended period.
 
Here are a few more tips from the field:
• Tires: Invest in high-quality all-terrain tires. Keep a full-size spare, a patch kit, and a portable air compressor in the truck at all times.
• Electrical: Add a dual-battery system if possible. One battery for starting, one for accessories—especially if you’re running radios, lights, or refrigeration.
• Storage: Use lockable, weatherproof containers in the bed for tools, recovery gear, and emergency supplies. Keep it organized and accessible.
• Maintenance: Know your vehicle inside and out. Carry spare belts, fluids, and filters. Learn how to do basic repairs yourself.
• Documentation: Keep a paper map, a compass, and a notebook in the glove box. GPS is great—until it isn’t.
 
Remember, the goal isn’t to look tactical. It’s to be quietly capable. Your vehicle should be a tool, not a billboard. Blend in, stay ready, and keep moving forward.
 
Learn more here at survivalschoolmichigan.com

Monkey Paw: The Everyday Keychain That’s Banned in 8 States

The “Monkey Paw,” more commonly known as the Monkey Fist, is a compact tool fashioned from paracord wrapped around a steel ball and carried for discreet personal protection. Its origins lie in the sailor’s knot once used to weigh down ropes, but over time it evolved into a defensive implement. Modern versions are paracord keychains with a steel ball core, typically about an inch in diameter. Though it may appear to be nothing more than a harmless accessory, when swung it delivers a powerful, concentrated strike. The physics of impact make the steel ball effective by adding weight, transforming the paracord knot into a small but formidable striking weapon.
Carried on a keychain or tucked into a pocket, the Monkey Paw can be swung to hit an attacker, causing pain or distraction and giving the user a chance to escape. Its discreet design allows it to pass as a rope knot or lanyard, making it less conspicuous than traditional weapons. Key features include the steel ball core, a military-grade paracord exterior, its dual function as both a striking weapon and survival tool, portability in a keychain-sized form, and a non-lethal design intended to bruise or stun rather than kill.
Legal and safety considerations are critical, as laws vary by region and in some places monkey fists are classified as concealed weapons. Carrying or possessing a Monkey Fist knot that is made with a heavy core such as a steel ball or a marble and is used or intended to be used as a weapon—often referred to as a slungshot—is illegal in eight U.S. states. States that reportedly prohibit the carrying or possession of a slungshot or Monkey Fist knot used as a weapon include California, Oklahoma, Massachusetts, Michigan, Nevada, Washington, Minnesota, and New Hampshire. They are meant to serve as a last-resort self-defense tool rather than for aggression, and their effectiveness depends on proper training and control.
Historically, sailors adapted monkey fists into slungshots, rope weapons used in fights, and today they are marketed as everyday carry self-defense tools, especially for women, runners, and those seeking non-lethal protection. In short, the Monkey Paw or Monkey Fist is a discreet paracord keychain with a steel ball inside, designed as a non-lethal self-defense weapon. It is effective for delivering quick strikes but must always be carried with responsibility and respect for the law.
 
“Best of luck to all hitting the woods for Michigan’s rifle opener — may your aim be true!”
 
Learn more right here at survivalschoolmichigan.com